The Home Inspection: What You Are Actually Paying For

A $400 check that protects a $400,000 decision. What inspectors look at, what they miss, and how to read the report.

The inspection is your tool to negotiate or walk. Use it correctly.

The short version

A home inspection is a 2-4 hour visual examination of the home by a licensed inspector. They check the major systems (roof, foundation, HVAC, plumbing, electrical, appliances) and produce a written report (30-80 pages) with photos.

The inspection is YOUR tool to either:

1.

Confirm the home is in the condition you expected

2.

Negotiate repairs or credit from the seller

3.

Walk away from the deal without losing your earnest money (within the inspection contingency window)

Cost: $350-$500 for a typical North Valley single-family home. Add-ons (pool inspection, termite/pest, sewer scope) usually $100-$200 each.

You pay for the inspection. You attend if you want (recommended). The report belongs to you.

What inspectors check

Roof:

Age, condition, visible damage, flashing, gutters, drainage.

Exterior:

Siding/stucco, paint, foundation visible cracks, drainage from house, hardscape condition.

Structure:

Foundation, framing (visible portions), settling indicators.

Plumbing:

Water pressure, leaks, drains, water heater age and condition, exposed pipe condition.

Electrical:

Panel, outlets, switches, visible wiring, GFCI protection in wet areas, grounding.

HVAC:

Furnace age and operation, AC age and operation, ductwork condition, filters, thermostats. In Phoenix this is critical given the heat load.

Insulation/ventilation:

Attic insulation depth, ventilation, vapor barriers.

Interior:

Doors and windows operation, floors, walls, ceilings, stairs.

Appliances:

Operation of built-in appliances (kitchen, laundry hookups).

Garage:

Door operation, opener, fire separation.

Safety:

Smoke detectors, CO detectors, handrails.

What inspectors DON'T check

This list matters because buyers assume the inspection covers everything. It doesn't.

Anything hidden behind walls

(sheathing, behind cabinets, behind tile)

Inside the sewer line

(separate sewer scope inspection, ~$200)

Under the foundation

(no excavation)

Mold

(visible mold gets noted; testing is separate)

Radon, asbestos, lead

(separate specialty inspections)

Termites/pest

(separate inspection in Arizona, often required by lender, ~$100)

Pool equipment beyond surface check

(separate pool inspection, ~$150)

Code compliance verification

(inspectors aren't code enforcers)

Cosmetic preferences

(paint color, layout, fixtures)

Survey/boundary

(separate professional)

Worth knowing so you can decide which additional inspections to add.

How to read the inspection report

The report will be long. Most inspectors organize it into:

Summary

(1-2 pages). The high-level concerns. Read this first.

Major issues

(3-8 typically). The items that materially affect the home's value or safety. These are what the inspection response negotiation focuses on.

Minor issues

(often 20-40+). Small stuff. Loose hinges, missing GFCI, weatherstripping issues. Many of these aren't worth negotiating; they're maintenance items you'll address as a homeowner.

Photos throughout.

Every issue should have a photo. The photos help you understand what the inspector saw.

Recommendations.

What the inspector recommends as next steps (e.g., "recommend HVAC technician evaluate for full service life" or "recommend licensed electrician evaluate panel").

I sit with you to read the report. We identify which items go into your inspection response, which we don't bother negotiating, and which (if any) might be deal-breakers.

The inspection response

After reading the report, you have a few options (within your inspection contingency window):

1.

Accept as-is.

Move forward without asking for anything. Strongest signal to seller.

2.

Request repairs.

Specific items you want fixed before closing.

3.

Request a closing-cost credit in lieu of repairs.

Often preferred by both sides; you get money to fix things on your own terms, seller doesn't deal with contractors.

4.

Request a price reduction.

Less common but valid.

5.

Walk away.

If the issues are severe enough, you can cancel the contract within the contingency window without losing earnest money.

The seller can:

• Agree to your request as written
• Counter (agree to some, decline others, offer alternative)
• Decline entirely (you can then accept or walk)

I negotiate this with the listing agent. The goal isn't to get every nickel; it's to make sure you're not closing on a home that has a $10,000 surprise waiting for you in month 2.

What to ask for, what to skip

Worth asking for:

• Active leaks
• Safety issues (electrical hazards, gas leaks, mold)
• Major system replacements due in <12 months (HVAC end-of-life, roof end-of-life)
• Failed structural components
• Pest infestations

Usually not worth asking for:

• Cosmetic issues
• Items the seller already disclosed
• General-aging items (worn carpet, dated fixtures)
• Items priced into the listing already

The seller's perspective.

Sellers have already mentally moved out. They're sensitive to inspection response asks that feel like you're trying to renegotiate price after the fact. The way the request is framed matters. I write the response in language that maximizes acceptance.

Finding a good inspector

Not the seller's recommendation.

You hire your own.

Licensed in Arizona

(look for ASHI or InterNACHI credentials or both).

5+ years of experience

in this market.

Detailed written reports with photos

(ask for a sample).

Willing to let you attend

the inspection.

Reasonable turn-around

on the report (within 24-48 hours of inspection).

I have inspector recommendations. They don't pay me a referral fee.

Frequently asked

Should I attend the inspection?

Yes if you can. You learn about the home, you can ask questions in real-time, and you get a sense of which issues the inspector considers serious vs minor. Plan 2-3 hours.

Can I waive the inspection?

In hot markets, some buyers waive the inspection contingency to strengthen offers. This is risky. You can still do an inspection for information, but waiving the contingency means you can't cancel based on what the inspection reveals. I generally don't recommend this for first-time buyers.

What if the inspector misses something major?

Inspectors carry errors and omissions insurance. If you can demonstrate the inspector missed something they reasonably should have caught, you may have a claim. Practically, this is hard to win. Pick a good inspector and don't rely on the inspection to catch everything.

What's the difference between an inspection and an appraisal?

Inspection = condition of the home for the buyer's benefit. Appraisal = value of the home for the lender's benefit. Different reports, different purposes, both happen during the contingency period.

Should I do a pool inspection?

If the home has a pool, yes. The $150 covers pump, filter, heater, plumbing, surface condition. Pool surprises in year 1 can cost $5,000+.